The short version
- Zareh, a casual Melbourne restaurant, was named Restaurant of the Year by Gourmet Traveller, marking a departure from previous winners focused on high-end European cuisine.
- Award recipients frequently cited their immigrant backgrounds and the contributions of migrant workers to Australia's hospitality sector during acceptance speeches.
- The ceremony also recognized established figures like Stephanie Alexander and long-standing institutions such as Beppi’s, alongside new talent in Indian and contemporary Australian cooking.
Melbourne’s Zareh has been named Restaurant of the Year by Gourmet Traveller, an accolade that signals a potential shift in the preferences of Australia’s culinary awards. The honor marks a departure from recent years, during which the top prize went to establishments known for fine dining and European-leaning menus, including Saint Peter, Attica, Quay, and Orana. Zareh, which opened in August 2025, offers a more casual approach to food that co-owner Tom Sarafian described as part of a new scene handling cuisine with equal skill but less formality.
The restaurant’s menu reflects the diverse heritage of its co-owners, Tom Sarafian and Jinane Bou-Assi, blending Armenian, Lebanese, and Egyptian influences. Dishes such as kafta nayyah feature raw minced lamb sourced from Tasmania and Victoria, while hummus is topped with spanner crab. The establishment also serves aish baladi, an Egyptian flatbread made with flour milled in the Mornington Peninsula. Sarafian named the venue after his paternal grandfather, describing it as a tribute to Lebanon’s historical welcome of Armenians following the genocide.
Sarafian acknowledged feelings of imposter syndrome upon receiving the award, noting that Zareh does not fit the traditional mold of fine dining. However, he emphasized the strength of Arab restaurants in Australia and viewed the win as validation for a more relaxed yet high-quality dining experience. The recognition comes at a time when the industry is increasingly acknowledging the role of cultural diversity in shaping its identity.
The broader awards ceremony, held in Sydney, featured numerous tributes to the immigrant workforce that underpins the hospitality sector. Marc Polese, owner of Beppi’s, a 70-year-old Italian institution in Sydney, accepted the reader-voted Enduring Excellence award. He used his speech to counter negative political rhetoric about immigration, honoring his father and the many migrants who work alongside him to sustain the industry.
Other winners also highlighted their migrant backgrounds. Saavni Krishnan and Aditya Suresh of Melbourne’s Saadi received the Best New Talent award for their modern Indian cuisine. As first-generation migrants, they sought to demonstrate that Indian food extends beyond curry, offering seasonal dishes like sundarkala noodles topped with wild barramundi from the Northern Territory. Their win underscores the growing prominence of contemporary interpretations of traditional cuisines.
Sam Young, known as “Big” Sam Young, was named Restaurant Personality of the Year for his front-of-house work at Young’s Palace and S’more in Sydney. Co-owning these venues with Grace Chen, Young reflected on his journey from a kitchen hand earning $10 an hour to a celebrated figure in the industry. He described standing among his peers as a privilege, acknowledging his immigrant roots and humble beginnings.
The ceremony also honored long-standing contributions to Australian food culture. Chef and author Stephanie Alexander received a standing ovation for her Outstanding Contribution to Hospitality award. Known for founding Stephanie’s restaurant in 1976 and establishing the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden Foundation, she celebrated the 30th anniversary of her seminal cookbook, The Cook’s Companion. She expressed pride in influencing younger generations now entrenched in the industry.
Additional awards went to Melbourne’s Yiaga for Best New Restaurant and Christian Ryan of Hobart’s Aloft and Restaurant Maria for Chef of the Year. The event marked the 60th anniversary of Gourmet Traveller magazine, which launched in 1966 as the Australian Gourmet Magazine. The collection of winners this year reflects a broader recognition of Australia’s multicultural fabric and the evolving nature of its dining landscape.
The shift toward honoring casual and culturally diverse establishments suggests a changing definition of excellence in Australian gastronomy. While fine dining remains influential, awards are increasingly acknowledging venues that prioritize authenticity, community ties, and accessible luxury. This trend may encourage more restaurants to embrace their unique cultural narratives without adhering strictly to traditional fine-dining conventions.
As the industry continues to evolve, the recognition of migrant contributions and diverse culinary traditions offers a model for future inclusivity. The awards serve not only as professional accolades but also as platforms for discussing broader social issues, such as immigration and cultural preservation. Zareh’s win, in particular, highlights the potential for non-traditional venues to achieve top honors, reshaping expectations for what constitutes a premier dining experience.
Sources behind this briefing
Go to the original reporting
- The Guardian World↗Melbourne’s Armenian-Lebanese eatery Zareh named Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant of the year
