The short version
- Martine Rose becomes the first woman to lead Balenciaga in its 109-year history, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli.
- The appointment is part of CEO Luca de Meo's strategy to revitalize Kering's portfolio by emphasizing cultural innovation.
- Rose brings extensive experience in menswear and streetwear, having previously worked at Balenciaga during Demna Gvasalia's tenure.
Balenciaga has appointed British designer Martine Rose as its new creative director, marking a significant departure from the fashion house’s historical norms. For the first time in its 109-year existence, the brand will be led by a woman. This move also positions Rose as only the second Black woman to helm a major European luxury label, following Grace Wales Bonner’s appointment at Hermès in 2025. The transition underscores a shifting landscape within an industry long characterized by white, male-dominated leadership structures.
Rose succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, who departed the Spanish-owned brand after an eighteen-month tenure. Her arrival is not entirely new to the organization; she previously spent three years working on Balenciaga’s menswear line during the creative directorship of Demna Gvasalia. During that period, she contributed to shaping the brand’s signature oversized aesthetic, which included the popularization of bulky footwear and unconventional bag designs. She will now assume responsibility for both men’s and women’s collections.
The appointment is a central component of a wider strategic overhaul at Kering, the conglomerate that owns Balenciaga alongside Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent. CEO Luca de Meo has been actively restructuring the group’s portfolio to address financial struggles and reinvigorate its market position. De Meo described Rose’s selection as a reflection of the company’s ambition to maintain Balenciaga’s status at the forefront of cultural innovation and creativity. He emphasized her connection to younger generations and her instinctive understanding of contemporary culture as key assets for the brand’s future.
Rose established her own eponymous label in London in 2007, building a reputation for streetwear-inspired designs that draw heavily from British subcultures. Her work often incorporates influences from football, reggae music, and northern soul, creating a distinct mashup of styles that has garnered a cult following. She is known for challenging traditional menswear conventions, a pursuit she has described as a personal interest in breaking rules rather than simply adhering to established norms. Her designs have been worn by high-profile figures including Justin Bieber, Timothée Chalamet, Drake, Rihanna, and Hailey Bieber.
Her influence extends beyond retail into performance and music culture. Rapper Kendrick Lamar commissioned a custom varsity jacket from Rose for his 2025 Super Bowl halftime performance, featuring the title of one of his songs. This collaboration highlights her ability to bridge high fashion with popular cultural moments. Rose has also been recognized for her unconventional approach to fashion presentations, staging shows in non-traditional venues such as a north London cul-de-sac, her daughter’s primary school, and a shuttered gay sauna in south London.
In addition to her independent label, Rose has engaged in significant collaborations that expand her reach. She worked with Nike on a genderless tailored collection unveiled during the 2023 Women’s World Cup and served as a guest creative director for Clarks, marking the first time in the footwear company’s two-century history that it invited an external designer to lead a collection. In 2023, she was a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where she paid tribute to Italo house music using a cast of local Florentines and London-based friends.
Rose’s background includes a foundation year at Camberwell College of Arts and fashion studies at Middlesex University. Born in south London to a Jamaican father who worked as an accountant and a British mother who was a nurse, she began her career by launching a T-shirt line with a friend before closing it to focus on her own brand. She received financial support and mentorship through the Fashion East incubator’s Newgen initiative in 2011, joining alumni such as Kim Jones and Simone Rocha.
The business landscape for Rose’s independent label has faced challenges, including rising manufacturing costs attributed to Brexit. The Italian e-commerce firm the Level Group now holds a majority stake in her brand, which has not staged a show since June 2025. Despite these operational hurdles, her appointment at Balenciaga represents a major validation of her design philosophy and cultural impact. Rose stated that she views the role as a privilege and is committed to honoring the house’s legacy while creating its next chapter.
This leadership change signals a potential shift in Balenciaga’s creative direction, moving away from the recent tenure of Piccioli toward a perspective rooted in streetwear and subcultural authenticity. As Kering continues to navigate market pressures, Rose’s ability to blend high fashion with accessible cultural references may prove critical in maintaining the brand’s relevance. The industry will likely watch closely to see how her distinct aesthetic translates to the broader luxury market under the Balenciaga name.
The appointment also highlights a broader trend of diversity and inclusion efforts within top-tier fashion houses, albeit slowly. With Rose and Wales Bonner leading major European brands, the sector is beginning to reflect a more diverse range of creative voices. However, the pace of change remains gradual, and the impact of these appointments on the wider industry structure will depend on how effectively these leaders can sustain innovation while meeting commercial expectations.
Sources behind this briefing
Go to the original reporting
- The Guardian US↗Martine Rose appointed creative director at Balenciaga
